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Cutting binding ledges on a classical.
http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=45792		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Colin North [ Wed May 27, 2015 3:47 am ]
Post subject:  Cutting binding ledges on a classical.
I'm going to be using a tower type binding jig.
Attachment:
PC260016.JPG

How to prevent cutting into the neck with the bit?
I'm not so confident to "just stop short" of the neck wood, and the heel area is mostly pre-shaped.
I was thinking to HHG small blocks at the heel area as stops for the bit bearing.
Any better suggestions??
Author:  Imbler [ Wed May 27, 2015 8:40 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Cutting binding ledges on a classical.
That's what I do. I make sure to leave at least .125 (I use a .120 wide ledge) in the heel area, or put sacrificial blocks in the heel area. Otherwise, I wind up stopping too far from the neck, and generally not doing a smooth job in that area. You can use spruce so it is very easy to carve away after you are done,
Mike


Colin North wrote:
I'm going to be using a tower type binding jig.
Attachment:
PC260016.JPG

How to prevent cutting into the neck with the bit?
I'm not so confident to "just stop short" of the neck wood, and the heel area is mostly pre-shaped.
I was thinking to HHG small blocks at the heel area as stops for the bit bearing.
Any better suggestions??
Author:  mflazar [ Wed May 27, 2015 8:48 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Cutting binding ledges on a classical.
Another way might be to clamp something to the top of the neck which would act as a stop for the edge of your router base. The size of the base may or may not work for this.
Author:  mkellyvrod [ Wed May 27, 2015 10:29 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Cutting binding ledges on a classical.
Although I'm always a bit nervous when cutting binding ledges, I've not yet (on my 11th classical) had a problem with this part of the process. I just move real slow when I get close to the neck and make sure I have plenty of light on the situation (do my routing on a table in the out of doors).
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